In a bar on Busandaehak-ro, the street in front of Pusan National University (PNU), young people gather and talk even on early weekday evenings. Each of them holds a cocktail called “Mak-tail,” made using the Makgeolli, a Korean traditional milky rice wine. In front of a table beautifully set with Yukjeon and Pyeonyuk, Korean traditional snacks, young people have a talk about the taste and aroma of alcohol, creating a joyful atmosphere.

On September 17th, at the “Korean Traditional Liquor Tasting Event” organized by PNU’s traditional liquor club, “Juingong,” and “PNU Alley Marketers,” the event took place at a traditional liquor bar called “Dongdongzoo Dongzoo” and attracted around ten participants, including not only members of the Juingong but office workers, and university students who love liquor. It was a stark contrast to the previous image of traditional liquor, which was often associated as an “old-fashioned thing” or loved by the “older generation.” Traditional liquor has now firmly established itself as a part of the mainstream culture enjoyed by young people as well. “Channel PNU” reports the Korean traditional culture of brewing traditional liquor from door to door revived by the young people, through a series of features on “traditional liquor.”

■Traditional Liquor Market Thriving with Youth Interest

The Korean traditional liquor market in Korea has been steadily growing since 2017. Currently, there are over 1,500 regional specialty brewery licenses issued, and new breweries and traditional liquors emerge every year. According to the “2021 Liquor Industry Information Survey” released by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food, and Rural Affairs (MAFRA) in March, the total sales volume of traditional liquors significantly increased 89.2% compared to 2020 (12,862㎘). Lee Jun-Pyo, the co-representative of “Ggulggeok House,” a brewpub located in Busan Suyeong-gu, said, “Traditional liquor has surpassed 1% of the entire liquor market. With young people entering the market, new and exciting content is emerging.”

The growth of the traditional liquor market is partly attributed to the increasing interest of young people. The report by MAFRA mentioned that the growing trend of the traditional liquor market was fueled by the interest of the younger generation, who are interested in premium liquor consumption. The boom in traditional liquor startups among young people also contributed a lot. Choi Chang-Seok, the CEO of the traditional liquor bar “Aechak,” stated,  “As the culture of drinking has transformed into a calm and enjoyable trend, not just a drink, the market itself changed. Now, not only the older generation but also the younger generation is leading the traditional liquor culture.” 

With the growth of traditional liquor culture, traditional liquor bars are emerging in Busandaehak-ro. These bars include traditional liquor bars like Dongdongzoo Dongzoo, Sulhwadang, Hyowonjuga and Jangjeonhahoe. There are also traditional liquor stores like Sool25. Last month, the “Taeinjeongdoga” brewery, specializing in traditional liquor production, also opened its doors.

On September 21st, 9am, the traditional liquor bar in Busandaehak-ro was bustling with students. Park Joon-Gyu (Dept. of Political Science and Diplomacy, 21), who visited Hyowonjuga, said, “There is a variety of traditional liquor and the staff explain the drinks, and it is great that the staff explains about the liquor. Unlike regular pubs, the composition of snacks are also unique, making it quite appealing.”

■New Content for Young People in Their 20s And 30s

Young people who enjoy traditional liquor have also formed new communities. The “Juingong” club, which organized this tasting event, is one such example. The Juingong, a club started by PNU students who enjoy traditional liquor culture, carries out activities such as traditional liquor tastings and brewery tours. Shim Woo-Seop (Dept. of Plant Bioscience, 18), the president of the Juingong, said, “Our traditional liquor often uses “nuruk” as a base, which is different from Western liquor, and many people find it refreshing. Our goal is to continue sharing our culture with various people.” Jung Hye-Won, the CEO of Dongdongzoo Dongzoo, who co-hosted the tasting event with the Juingong, said, “Although it may feel a bit awkward, we hope that this tasting event will leave pleasant memories for everyone,” expressing a desire for more people to appreciate traditional liquor culture.

The tasting was praised by the young participants. Even those who tried traditional liquor for the first time through this unique event expressed a desire to continue enjoying traditional liquor culture. Choi Ji-Hoon (Dept. of Sociology, 20), who visited traditional liquor tasting events for the first time, said, “I had only tried traditional liquor briefly before. I plan to continue enjoying it.” Son Si-Woo (Dept. of Materials Engineering, 19), a member of the Juingong attending his third tasting event, said, “The charm of the tasting event is that it allows for various conversations based on unfamiliar traditional liquor.”

The Juingong plans to continue promoting traditional liquor culture through various tasting events. They aim to increase accessibility through unique traditional liquors and events. President Shim said, “If the responses are positive, we will also consider creating a community where various opinions about traditional liquor can be shared. Events that combine music and traditional liquor can be excellent content, we believe.”

■The Youth Engage in the Traditional Liquor Market

Beyond simply enjoying traditional liquor, young people are also getting involved in brewing their own traditional liquor. The “home bar” culture of creating one's own bar at home has been on the rise, especially during the pandemic. The fact that traditional liquor brewing can be done with minimal ingredients has contributed to this trend. They are rediscovering the culture of brewing alcohol at home, a tradition that had faded away. Lim Su-Hyun (Dept. of Electrical Engineering, 17), a young brewer working at “Ggulggeok House,” also started brewing at home. Lim said, “With just rice, water, and a rice cooker, anyone can easily attempt this hobby. I hope more people try it out.” Choi Seung-Ha, the co-representative of Ggulggeok House, mentioned, “The hobby of brewing can evolve into a professional activity in the future.”

To fully capture the attention of the young generation, new initiatives are emerging. Co-representative Choi said, “We are continually experimenting with different approaches. We appeal to the evolving tastes of the younger generation and use various ingredients and rebranding.” Choi expressed the desire to challenge new initiatives that “ignite curiosity” from people. Choi said, “In the case of overseas breweries, there are eccentric cases where they set sail with beer on a ship to ferment. I want to challenge that makes consumers think weird but unforgettable like it.”

Likewise, the MAFRA emphasizes “young sensibility” as a driving force for the growing traditional liquor market. They stress the need to prepare promotional strategies that resonate with the young. It mentioned in the 2021 report that promoting traditional liquor with young sensibilities, especially appealing to the main consumer group, the “MZ generation,” is essential to improve consumer awareness of traditional liquor.

Reporter Jo Seung-Wan

Translated by Ha Chae-Won