“Channel PNU” visited “Gukje Market,” “Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market,” and “Seodong Maze Market” on February 11th and 14th to introduce traditional markets in Busan.

When stepping into a traditional market, visitors immediately feel a distinct atmosphere compared to big supermarkets. While both places offer a variety of goods, what sets the market apart from the other is the presence of people’s lives intertwined within it. The display of merchandise along the alley may seem chaotic, but merchants navigate through it without hesitation, quickly finding what they need. The charm of traditional markets, with their merchants’ warmth and affordable prices, captivates visitors in Busan.

To showcase the allure of various traditional markets in Busan, ranging from well-known ones representing the city to unknown ones, “Channel PNU” visited “Gukje Market,” “Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market,” and “Seodong Maze Market” on February 11th and 14th.

■Find Whatever You Want at “Gukje Market”

Clockwise from top left, entrance of zone 6 with the sign of the Gukje Market, Gukje Underground Shopping Center, and a bedding shop in zone 2. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]
Clockwise from top left, entrance of zone 6 with the sign of the Gukje Market, Gukje Underground Shopping Center, and a bedding shop in zone 2. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]

Established after the liberation of Korea in 1945 in Jung-gu, Busan, Gukje Market has all the modern history of Korea. The influx of refugees to Busan, which became the temporary capital city during the Korean War in 1950, naturally led to the formation of Gukje Market as a central hub providing essential goods to the population. Over time, the market expanded and solidified its position as a representative market of Busan.

Renowned even more after being a film location of “Ode to My Father (Korean title: Gukje Market),” visitors to Gukje Market can see a typical example of a traditional market. Merchants here sell a wide array of products, such as dishware, light bulbs, decorative items, etc. The market is divided into 6 zones called geong-gu, each of which houses stores specializing in similar products: zone 1 (bags, stationery, and handicrafts), zone 2 (kitchenware), zone 3 (bedding), zone 4 (textiles), zone 5 (home appliances), zone 6 (tools).

Going upstairs, visitors can get to the second floor, where many stores await customers. Down below, in the Gukje Underground Shopping Center situated between Gukje Market and Bupyeong Kkangtong Market, an Art Street is curated, displaying and selling paintings, crafts, and hosting exhibitions.

While the official closure days are the first and third Sundays of each month, the operating days of individual stores vary, with some opening every Sunday and others operating without breaks. Therefore, if there is a specific store to visit, contact them in advance. To visit here, get off at Busan Line 1 Jagalchi Station and walk for three minutes from Exit 7. Then you can explore the market starting from zone 6.

■A Unique Night at “Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market”

From left, a general store in Bupyeong Kkangtong Market, a fish cake stand. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]
From left, a general store in Bupyeong Kkangtong Market, a fish cake stand. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]
Clockwise from top left, Bupyeong Kkangtong Market, mung bean pancake on sale, and the shingle sign introducing Bupyeong Kkangtong Market. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]
Clockwise from top left, Bupyeong Kkangtong Market, mung bean pancake on sale, and the shingle sign introducing Bupyeong Kkangtong Market. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]

The name “Bupyeong Kkangtong (Can) Market” originated from the fact that a lot of canned goods from the US military had been traded since the Korean War. As the clock strikes 7:30pm, the market turns into a bustling “Bupyeong Kkangtong “Night” Market.” During the day, it may look like any other market, but as the sun sets, it transforms into a night market with a lineup of food trucks. Established in 2013 as the first permanent night market in Korea, Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market exudes a fresh atmosphere.

The main attraction of the night market is undoubtedly the food. Visitors can taste various Busan delicacies such as fish cakes and rice cakes, bibim noodles, and tofu pouches. Lining up in the market alley, around 30 food trucks offer diverse cuisines from around the world. While the alley itself may not be long, it captivates people for a long time with its diverse food offerings. Wandering through the market, people can experience a different charm of the market compared to the daytime, enjoying street foods like hotteok, mung bean pancakes, kebabs, and okonomiyaki.

Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market operates without regular closure, but there are occasional closures around the holidays. So, if you want to visit here around the Lunar New Year or Chuseok, check the market’s website for closures. To visit here, get off at Busan Line 1 Jagalchi Station and walk for 10 minutes from Exit 3 to the starting point of the night market alley. You can also get here directly from Gukje market through Gukje Underground Shopping Center.

■Nearby PNU, “Seodong Maze Market”

Seodong Maze Market information map. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]
Seodong Maze Market information map. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]
Clockwise from top left, egg dumplings being made, donuts on sale, egg dumpling and tteokbokki. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]
Clockwise from top left, egg dumplings being made, donuts on sale, egg dumpling and tteokbokki. [Lee Soo-Hyun, Reporter]

In Geumjeong-gu, where the Busan Campus of Pusan National University (PNU) is located, there is also a traditional market. “Seodong Maze Market,” a combination of Seodong Traditional Alley Market, Seodong Local Market, and Seodong Market, is the largest market in Geumjeong-gu. This market emerged as people gathered following the forced relocation of residents in the late 1960s and cultural spaces have been established. True to its name, the market is intricate, with nine official entrances. Resembling a maze, it has various sections branching off in different directions. If you are a newcomer here, take a picture of the map at the entrance before entering the market.

The Seodong Maze Market is full of affordable snacks. While rice cakes and bread are steady sellers, the most famous snack here is egg dumplings. Originating from Seodong, a plate full of egg dumplings is served for just 1,500 won. This dish, resembling a pancake made with noodles and eggs, goes well with soy sauce or tteokbokki sauce. It gained popularity as a food that Jimin of singer BTS frequently ate. Kalguksu, the knife-cut noodles, is another popular dish. Priced at 4,000 to 5,000 won for a full bowl of noodles, the Kalguksu stores are full of people by lunchtime.

While operating hours may vary by store, the Seodong Maze Market is open from 10am to 10pm. To visit here from PNU, take bus 29 at the main gate of PNU and get off at Seo 3 Community Security Center. You can immediately enter the second gate of the market.

Reporter Lee Soo-Hyun

Translated by Lee Soo-Hyun

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